How to Install Vinyl Plank Flooring

Remove the existing baseboards or shoe molding (label them for reinstallation). Clean the subfloor thoroughly — sweep, vacuum, and remove any debris, staples, or high spots. Check for flatness by laying a long straightedge across the floor; fill any low spots with floor leveling compound and sand down any high spots. The floor must be flat to within 3/16 inch over a 10-foot span.

If your LVP doesn't have pre-attached underlayment (a foam or cork pad on the bottom of each plank), roll out a separate underlayment. Lay strips edge to edge without overlapping (overlap causes high spots). Tape the seams with the manufacturer's recommended tape. On concrete subfloors, use an underlayment with a built-in vapor barrier. Trim the underlayment flush at the walls.

Measure the room width and divide by the plank width to determine how many rows you need. If the last row would be less than half a plank wide, adjust the first row by ripping it narrower to balance the two sides. Run planks parallel to the longest wall or toward the main light source for the best visual effect. Dry-fit the first two rows without clicking them together to verify the layout looks right.

Place 1/4-inch spacers along the starting wall to create an expansion gap. Lay the first plank with the tongue side facing the wall. If you need to rip the first row narrower, score the plank with a utility knife against a straightedge and snap it, or use a table saw for a cleaner cut. Connect subsequent planks in the first row end-to-end by angling the tongue of the new plank into the groove of the previous plank and pressing down until it clicks.

Start the second row with a plank cut to a different length (at least 6 inches offset from the first row's end joint). Angle the long edge of the new plank into the groove of the first row at about 20 degrees, then press down and forward until it clicks flat. Use a tapping block and rubber mallet to snug tight end joints. Continue row by row, maintaining the staggered pattern and checking alignment every few rows.

For door frames, use an oscillating multi-tool or a handsaw to undercut the door casing so the plank slides underneath. For pipes, drill a hole slightly larger than the pipe diameter, then make a straight cut from the hole to the nearest edge, install the plank, and fill the gap around the pipe with matching caulk. For irregular shapes, make a cardboard template and transfer it to the plank.

Measure the width needed for the last row (accounting for the 1/4-inch expansion gap). Rip the planks to width using a utility knife and straightedge (score deeply and snap) or a table saw. Use a pull bar hooked over the plank's edge and tap it with a rubber mallet to pull the last row tight against the previous row. The pull bar is essential because there's no room to swing a tapping block against the wall.

Remove all spacers. Install transition strips at doorways where the LVP meets a different flooring material. Reinstall the baseboards or add new quarter-round molding to cover the expansion gap along the walls. Nail the molding to the wall (not the floor) so the floor can still expand freely underneath. Set nails below the surface and fill the holes with matching wood filler.