How to Install Under-Cabinet Lighting
Brighten dark kitchen countertops with LED under-cabinet lights. This intermediate guide covers both plug-in and hardwired options, from planning your layout to hiding the wires for a clean install.
Repair & Refinish Team
Published December 5, 2025 · Updated February 20, 2026
What You'll Need
- Drill/driver with bits
- Tape measure
- Level
- Wire strippers (for hardwired)
- Stud finder
- Screwdriver
- Cable staples or clips
- LED under-cabinet light bars or strip lights
- Mounting hardware (screws, brackets, or adhesive)
- Cable management clips or raceways
- Wire nuts and electrical tape (if hardwiring)
- Dimmer switch (optional)
Cost Estimate
Budget
$30
Mid-Range
$80
Premium
$150
An electrician charges $200-$500 for hardwired under-cabinet lights. Plug-in LED kits cost $30-$80 DIY; hardwired setups cost $80-$150.
Step-by-Step Instructions
Plan the Layout and Choose Your Lights
Step 1 of 6Measure the length of each cabinet section where you want lighting. Position lights toward the front edge of the cabinet (closest to the countertop edge) to minimize visible glare when standing at the counter. For even coverage, the light bar should span at least 2/3 the width of the cabinet. Mark the mounting positions with painter's tape.
Position lights behind any valance or front trim piece on the cabinet. This hides the light fixture from view when standing at the counter — you see the light, not the source.
Mount the Light Fixtures
Step 2 of 6Most LED under-cabinet light bars include mounting clips or brackets. Hold each bracket against the cabinet bottom, mark the screw holes, and drill pilot holes. Screw the brackets in place. If using adhesive-backed LED strips, clean the cabinet surface with rubbing alcohol first, then press the strip firmly into position. For puck lights, drill the screw holes and mount each puck.
Route the Wiring (Plug-In Method)
Step 3 of 6For plug-in lights, run the power cord along the back of the cabinet, down the wall behind the backsplash, to the nearest outlet. Use adhesive-backed cable clips every 12 inches to secure the cord. A paintable cord cover (raceway) can hide the wire against the wall or cabinet back. Many plug-in LED kits can be daisy-chained, so you only need one outlet for multiple lights.
If your countertop has a small gap between the backsplash and the wall cabinets, you can tuck the wire in this channel for a nearly invisible installation.
Wire to a Switch (Hardwired Method)
Step 4 of 6For a hardwired installation, turn off the breaker. Run 14/2 Romex from the switch location up through the wall, into the cabinet void above the uppers, and down to each light position. Connect the wires at the switch (black to switch terminal, white to neutral bundle, ground to ground). At each light fixture, connect black to black, white to white, and ground to ground using wire nuts. If using a transformer for low-voltage LED lights, mount it inside the cabinet and wire the line-voltage side to the house wiring.
Turn off the breaker and verify with a voltage tester before making any electrical connections. If you're not comfortable running wiring through walls, use the plug-in method or hire an electrician.
Install a Dimmer Switch (Optional)
Step 5 of 6A dimmer lets you set the mood from bright task lighting to soft ambiance. For plug-in lights, use an inline dimmer ($10-$15) on the power cord. For hardwired lights, install a wall dimmer switch rated for LED loads. Standard incandescent dimmers cause LED lights to flicker — buy a dimmer specifically marked "LED compatible." Follow the dimmer's wiring instructions for your specific setup.
The Lutron Caseta dimmer is the gold standard for LED under-cabinet lights. It eliminates flickering and works with a wireless remote, so you can control the lights from anywhere.
Test and Adjust
Step 6 of 6Restore power and test all lights. Check for even illumination across the counter — if you see dark spots between fixtures, move the bars closer together. Verify the dimmer works smoothly through its full range. Check all wire connections one final time. If using adhesive-backed strips, press them firmly again after 10 minutes — the adhesive reaches full bond strength in 24 hours.
Recommended Products
Plug-in LED light bars with warm white LEDs. Linkable design — one outlet powers all three bars. Tool-free snap-in mounting. 1,050 lumens total.
Hardwired slim-profile LED light with high CRI (90+) warm white LEDs. Linkable for continuous runs. Includes all mounting hardware. Dimmable with compatible switch.
Flexible adhesive-backed LED strip with warm white LEDs. Dimmable. Cuttable every 2 inches for custom lengths. USB-powered. Budget-friendly accent lighting.
Affiliate Disclosure: We earn a small commission when you buy through our links at no extra cost to you.
Tips & Warnings
- LED light bars with a CRI (Color Rendering Index) of 90+ make food look more natural and appetizing. Cheap LEDs with CRI below 80 give everything a gray cast.
- Warm white (2700-3000K) is best for kitchens with wood cabinets and warm tones. Cool white (4000-5000K) suits modern white or gray kitchens.
- Link multiple light bars with the included connectors for seamless coverage across long runs of cabinets.
- Use frosted or diffused LED strips rather than bare diodes. Bare LEDs create harsh bright spots instead of even illumination.
- Always turn off the breaker before doing any hardwired electrical work. Verify power is off with a voltage tester.
- Use only LED-compatible dimmers with LED lights. Standard dimmers cause flickering, buzzing, and premature LED failure.
- Don't mount lights directly above a heat source (like above a stove without a hood). Heat shortens LED lifespan.
Frequently Asked Questions
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